--- title: "Oven not heating" description: "LG oven not heating: an oven that will not heat divides cleanly on this make, because LG tells you which half you are in." url: "https://lgmiami.support/symptoms/oven-not-heating/" date_modified: "2026-09-05" Appliance type: "Ranges, Wall ovens" --- # LG oven not heating ### Look at the element before anything else With the oven cold and the power off at the breaker, look at the bake element in the bottom of the cavity. An element that has failed is often visibly blistered, split or broken, and that is the whole diagnosis from the doorway. On a gas oven, start it and watch the igniter through the vent at the bottom: it should glow bright orange within a minute and the burner should light. One that glows dull and never lights is a weak igniter. ### What it usually means, by the kind of LG appliance LG sells one appliance in several forms — five shapes of washer, three kinds of dryer, four fuels of range — and the same behavior points at different things on each of them. A built-in side-by-side and an integrated column are not the same service situation, and a dual-fuel range and an induction range fail in different halves. - **Electric range** — One bake element at the bottom, one broil element at the top. A visible blister or break in either is the answer. - **Gas range** — The igniter draws current to open the valve, so a weak igniter means gas that never arrives. It is the commonest gas oven repair there is. - **Double wall oven** — The code tells you which cavity before you open anything, which on a built-in saves drawing the appliance out twice. ### The number is worth more than the symptom Ovens on this make share one code list across ranges and wall ovens, and the numbers carry a location as well as a condition. F1 and F2 are the upper cavity temperature sensor; F4 and F5 are the lower one. F6, F9 and F19 are heating problems rather than measuring ones. F10 and F20 are the door lock, upper and lower. Reading that number before cutting the power is the single most useful thing a homeowner can do for the visit. ### Why gas ovens fail this way A gas oven’s safety valve is opened by the current the igniter draws, not by a separate control. So an igniter that has aged and draws less current than it used to will still glow — brightly enough to look perfectly healthy — and still never open the valve. That is why ‘the igniter glows so it must be fine’ is the most common wrong conclusion in this repair, and why it is measured rather than looked at. The bake element Electric ovens. It fails open, often visibly. Gas ovens. It weakens over years until it no longer draws enough current to open the valve. The oven temperature sensor F1, F2, F4, F5 and F16. The oven cannot measure, so it will not heat. A 240-volt appliance on one leg. PF after a storm is the polite version of this. Write the code down first F1 is not F4. The number says which cavity and which part, and it is the cheapest information in the whole job. Look at the element with the power off A break, a blister or a bright patch where it arced. On gas, watch the igniter for a full minute Bright orange and lit within a minute is healthy. Dull and unlit is the part. Try the broil element as well If broil works and bake does not, the supply and the board are both fine. It lights up, it counts down, and it stays cold What it usually means The F number names the cavity: F1 and F2 upper, F4 and F5 lower On electric, look at the bake element cold — a break is often visible On gas, an igniter that glows and never lights is the classic failure Look at the element before anything else With the oven cold and the power off at the breaker, look at the bake element in the bottom of the cavity. An element that has failed is often visibly blistered, split or broken, and that is the whole diagnosis from the doorway. On a gas oven, start it and watch the igniter through the vent at the bottom: it should glow bright orange within a minute and the burner should light. One that glows dull and never lights is a weak igniter. What it usually means, by the kind of LG appliance LG sells one appliance in several forms — five shapes of washer, three kinds of dryer, four fuels of range — and the same behavior points at different things on each of them. A built-in side-by-side and an integrated column are not the same service situation, and a dual-fuel range and an induction range fail in different halves. Electric range — One bake element at the bottom, one broil element at the top. A visible blister or break in either is the answer. Gas range — The igniter draws current to open the valve, so a weak igniter means gas that never arrives. It is the commonest gas oven repair there is. Double wall oven — The code tells you which cavity before you open anything, which on a built-in saves drawing the appliance out twice. The number is worth more than the symptom Ovens on this make share one code list across ranges and wall ovens, and the numbers carry a location as well as a condition. F1 and F2 are the upper cavity temperature sensor; F4 and F5 are the lower one. F6, F9 and F19 are heating problems rather than measuring ones. F10 and F20 are the door lock, upper and lower. Reading that number before cutting the power is the single most useful thing a homeowner can do for the visit. Why gas ovens fail this way A gas oven’s safety valve is opened by the current the igniter draws, not by a separate control. So an igniter that has aged and draws less current than it used to will still glow — brightly enough to look perfectly healthy — and still never open the valve. That is why ‘the igniter glows so it must be fine’ is the most common wrong conclusion in this repair, and why it is measured rather than looked at. ### The oven works but everything burns on the bottom. That is a calibration or sensor question rather than a heating one. Check with an oven thermometer on the middle shelf for half an hour at a set temperature. If it reads high, most of these can be offset from the control panel. If it swings wildly, the sensor is drifting and that is a part. ### The cooktop works and the oven does not. Useful information, and on an electric range it usually rules out the supply, because both run from the same 240-volt feed. On a dual fuel machine it rules out nothing — the top is gas and the oven is electric, and they are almost separate appliances in one cabinet. --- **[Read full article: Oven not heating](https://lgmiami.support/symptoms/oven-not-heating/)**