--- title: "Dryer not heating" description: "LG dryer not heating: a dryer that turns but never warms is one of the clearest symptoms in this trade, because the motor and the heat run on different…" url: "https://lgmiami.support/symptoms/dryer-not-heating/" date_modified: "2026-09-05" Appliance type: "Dryers" --- # LG dryer not heating ### Start at the breaker panel Go to the panel and find the dryer's breaker — it is a double, two switches joined. Switch it fully OFF and then back ON. A half-tripped double breaker often looks perfectly normal, which is why this is worth doing rather than looking at. If the machine then heats, that was the whole problem and there is nothing to repair. ### What it usually means, by the kind of LG appliance LG sells one appliance in several forms — five shapes of washer, three kinds of dryer, four fuels of range — and the same behavior points at different things on each of them. A built-in side-by-side and an integrated column are not the same service situation, and a dual-fuel range and an induction range fail in different halves. - **Vented electric** — Two legs of 240 volts. Losing one leaves a machine that tumbles cold. - **Vented gas** — The igniter is the usual part. One that glows and never lights is weak; one that never glows has failed. - **Ventless heat pump** — There is no element. The heat comes from a refrigerant loop, and a machine that will not warm is a sealed-system call rather than a heater one. ### Why the drum turns and the heat does not An electric dryer is fed by two 120-volt legs. The motor, the light and the controls run from one of them; the heating element needs both. So when one leg is lost — a half-tripped double breaker, a loose connection at the outlet, a worn cord — everything visible keeps working and the machine simply never gets hot. It is the most convincing failure in the laundry room and one of the cheapest to resolve. ### The part that tells you something else went wrong If the thermal cutoff has opened, replacing it is not the repair — it is half of it. A cutoff opens because the machine got hotter than it should have, and the reason is almost always a blocked duct. Fitting a new cutoff and leaving the duct packed means doing the same job again in a few months, with a hotter machine in between. Half of the double breaker tripped Free to check, common, and completely convincing while it lasts. The thermal cutoff A safety part that opens when the machine has overheated, and it does not reset. It opens because the air was restricted. The heating element A coil in a metal can at the back of the cabinet. It fails open and it is measured. The gas igniter On gas machines, far more often than the valve. Reset the double breaker properly Fully off, pause, fully on. Both halves together. Check the lint screen and the duct anyway A cutoff that has opened did so for a reason, and the reason is nearly always restricted air. On gas, watch the igniter through the lower vent It should glow bright orange and bring the flame on within a minute. Note whether it ever gets warm at all Slightly warm is a different diagnosis from stone cold. It tumbles, and everything comes out cold What it usually means Half a double breaker is the first thing to rule out and it costs nothing nP is LG's code for no current reaching the heater A thermal cutoff that has opened means the duct was blocked, and both need fixing Start at the breaker panel Go to the panel and find the dryer's breaker — it is a double, two switches joined. Switch it fully OFF and then back ON. A half-tripped double breaker often looks perfectly normal, which is why this is worth doing rather than looking at. If the machine then heats, that was the whole problem and there is nothing to repair. What it usually means, by the kind of LG appliance LG sells one appliance in several forms — five shapes of washer, three kinds of dryer, four fuels of range — and the same behavior points at different things on each of them. A built-in side-by-side and an integrated column are not the same service situation, and a dual-fuel range and an induction range fail in different halves. Vented electric — Two legs of 240 volts. Losing one leaves a machine that tumbles cold. Vented gas — The igniter is the usual part. One that glows and never lights is weak; one that never glows has failed. Ventless heat pump — There is no element. The heat comes from a refrigerant loop, and a machine that will not warm is a sealed-system call rather than a heater one. Why the drum turns and the heat does not An electric dryer is fed by two 120-volt legs. The motor, the light and the controls run from one of them; the heating element needs both. So when one leg is lost — a half-tripped double breaker, a loose connection at the outlet, a worn cord — everything visible keeps working and the machine simply never gets hot. It is the most convincing failure in the laundry room and one of the cheapest to resolve. The part that tells you something else went wrong If the thermal cutoff has opened, replacing it is not the repair — it is half of it. A cutoff opens because the machine got hotter than it should have, and the reason is almost always a blocked duct. Fitting a new cutoff and leaving the duct packed means doing the same job again in a few months, with a hotter machine in between. ### It was working yesterday. That fits the breaker or a supply connection far better than an element, which usually gives some warning. Reset the double breaker fully. If it heats, look at what else is on that circuit and whether the breaker is getting warm — a breaker that trips repeatedly is telling you something. ### Is it worth repairing an older dryer? Usually yes, and more often than people expect. An element, an igniter or a cutoff are inexpensive parts and the rest of a dryer is very simple. We will tell you plainly when the number stops making sense against a new machine, and that conversation belongs before the work rather than after it. --- **[Read full article: Dryer not heating](https://lgmiami.support/symptoms/dryer-not-heating/)**