--- title: "Cooktop burner not working" description: "LG cooktop burner not working: one burner out of four is the good version of this problem, because it usually rules out everything shared — the supply, the…" url: "https://lgmiami.support/symptoms/cooktop-burner-not-working/" date_modified: "2026-09-05" Appliance type: "Cooktops, Ranges" --- # LG cooktop burner not working ### Which kind of top do you have? This matters more than anything else on the page. Induction heats the pan and leaves the glass cool — a pan of water boils and the surface beside it is barely warm. Radiant heats the glass red and the glass heats the pan. If you are not sure, put a magnet on the surface and heat a pan: if the glass around the pan stays cool, it is induction, and the whole diagnosis below changes. ### What it usually means, by the kind of LG appliance LG sells one appliance in several forms — five shapes of washer, three kinds of dryer, four fuels of range — and the same behavior points at different things on each of them. A built-in side-by-side and an integrated column are not the same service situation, and a dual-fuel range and an induction range fail in different halves. - **Induction** — No element to fail. A coil, its sensor or the board section that drives it, and a single zone is the most likely. - **Radiant electric** — An element under the glass. They fail open, which is measurable, and the connector under them corrodes. - **Gas** — Igniter, burner cap seating, or a blocked port. Cleaning is the first answer and usually the last. ### Induction is a different appliance A radiant cooktop makes heat and passes it to the pan. An induction cooktop makes a magnetic field and the pan makes the heat itself. That means there is no element to burn out, but there is a coil, a control board section and a temperature sensor for every zone — and it means a pan that is not ferrous simply will not work, which is the most common non-repair we are called out for on these. ### Gas, and why cleaning is the answer A sealed gas burner has a cap that has to sit flat and square on its base, and a ring of small ports that carry the flame around. Anything that boils over goes into those ports, and anything that gets moved when the hob is cleaned goes back slightly wrong. Between them those two account for most dead gas burners, and both are free to put right with a brush, a pin and five minutes. The induction coil or its sensor F33 and F34 are the front burner sensors. A single zone failing is the common shape. A radiant element Fails open, and is measured rather than guessed at. A gas burner cap seated crooked Free to fix and responsible for a great many dead burners. A blocked port Something boiled over into the burner. A pin and a brush answer it. The touch panel F3, or LG's water-on-the-panel condition. The zone is fine and the control is not. Try a different pan on the dead zone On induction, a pan that is not magnetic will not heat and nothing is broken. Swap the burner cap with a working burner On gas. If the problem follows the cap, that is your answer. Dry the whole panel and clear it Water or metal in prolonged contact with the touch controls will disable them. Note whether the zone lights up at all A zone that acknowledges the touch and does not heat is different from one that does nothing. One zone is dead and the rest are fine What it usually means One zone dead is better news than several: the shared parts are fine Induction has coils and sensors rather than elements — F33 and F34 are its codes On gas, cleaning the cap and ports fixes more of these than parts do Which kind of top do you have? This matters more than anything else on the page. Induction heats the pan and leaves the glass cool — a pan of water boils and the surface beside it is barely warm. Radiant heats the glass red and the glass heats the pan. If you are not sure, put a magnet on the surface and heat a pan: if the glass around the pan stays cool, it is induction, and the whole diagnosis below changes. What it usually means, by the kind of LG appliance LG sells one appliance in several forms — five shapes of washer, three kinds of dryer, four fuels of range — and the same behavior points at different things on each of them. A built-in side-by-side and an integrated column are not the same service situation, and a dual-fuel range and an induction range fail in different halves. Induction — No element to fail. A coil, its sensor or the board section that drives it, and a single zone is the most likely. Radiant electric — An element under the glass. They fail open, which is measurable, and the connector under them corrodes. Gas — Igniter, burner cap seating, or a blocked port. Cleaning is the first answer and usually the last. Induction is a different appliance A radiant cooktop makes heat and passes it to the pan. An induction cooktop makes a magnetic field and the pan makes the heat itself. That means there is no element to burn out, but there is a coil, a control board section and a temperature sensor for every zone — and it means a pan that is not ferrous simply will not work, which is the most common non-repair we are called out for on these. Gas, and why cleaning is the answer A sealed gas burner has a cap that has to sit flat and square on its base, and a ring of small ports that carry the flame around. Anything that boils over goes into those ports, and anything that gets moved when the hob is cleaned goes back slightly wrong. Between them those two account for most dead gas burners, and both are free to put right with a brush, a pin and five minutes. ### It clicks constantly and will not light. Spark is arriving and gas is not, or the switch that stops the sparking is not seeing a flame. Nine times out of ten it is a wet or crooked burner cap — in this climate, moisture in the assembly after cleaning is a genuine cause. Take the cap off, dry everything, clear the ports and seat it squarely. ### The whole cooktop stopped at once. Then it is shared, and the list is short: the supply, the main board, or the touch control. On an electric range it is worth checking whether the oven still works, because they share the same feed and that answers half the question. --- **[Read full article: Cooktop burner not working](https://lgmiami.support/symptoms/cooktop-burner-not-working/)**