---
title: "One Burner Dead and the Rest Fine: Gas, Radiant and Induction"
description: "How to reset LG cooktop, what one dead zone rules out, and how gas, radiant and induction each fail differently — including the pan that is innocent."
url: "https://lgmiami.support/blog/one-burner-dead/"
date_modified: "2026-09-05"
Category: "Common Problems"
---


# One Burner Dead and the Rest Fine: Gas, Radiant and Induction

## How to reset LG cooktop, and what one dead zone rules out

There is no reset button. The reset is a power cycle, and it has two levels.

Press the **Power ON/OFF** key first. If the condition comes back, go to the breaker panel, switch the cooktop's breaker off for thirty seconds, and switch it back on. Thirty seconds rather than three, because the board needs time to discharge properly.

Before you do either, take everything off the glass and dry the panel completely, including the edges. LG documents a condition where metal objects or water in prolonged contact with the touch controls produce an error — a wet cloth folded over the panel while cleaning, a pan lid resting on the front, or a spill that has crept under the glass edge will all do it. A capacitive panel reads anything conductive as a finger that never lifts.

## One zone, or all of them

That is the whole first question, and it is worth answering before anything else.

**One zone out of four** is the good version. It rules out everything the zones share — the supply, the main board and the control panel are all evidently working, because the other three respond. What is left is that zone.

**All of them at once** points somewhere shared. On an electric range, check whether the oven still heats: both run from the same 240-volt feed, and an oven that works alongside a dead cooktop rules out the supply immediately.

## Then: which technology is under the glass?

This matters more than anything else on the page, and a surprising number of people are not sure. Boil a pan of water and touch the glass beside it. **Induction** heats the pan and leaves the surrounding glass barely warm. **Radiant** heats the glass red and the glass heats the pan. They look nearly identical installed and they fail completely differently.

## Induction

There is no element to burn out. Each zone has a wound coil, a temperature sensor underneath it, and a section of the inverter board that drives it — which is why a single dead zone is the affordable version of this problem and several at once usually is not.

**Before anything else, try a different pan.** A pan that is not ferrous will not heat, and nothing is broken. It happens more often than people admit, particularly after somebody has bought a new set. If a magnet does not stick firmly to the base, the cooktop is not going to work with it.

LG publishes **F33** and **F34** for the front induction burner temperature sensors — codes that exist on nothing else in its range. Worth checking too: the ventilation in the cabinet underneath. Induction electronics need airflow down there, and a blocked vent path produces shutdowns that look exactly like failures.

## Radiant

The element sits under the glass and fails open, which is measurable. The half people forget is the **connector** underneath it: it corrodes, it burns, and a new element fitted onto a burnt connector fails early. Both are replaced together on a proper repair.

A zone that acknowledges the touch — lights up, responds to the setting — and does not heat is different from one that does nothing at all, and it is worth saying which yours does when you call.

## Gas

Cleaning fixes more dead gas burners than parts do, and it is free.

Take the burner cap off. It has to sit **flat and square** on its base — a cap a millimeter out of position will spark forever without lighting. Look at the ring of small ports around the burner: anything that boiled over goes into those, and a pin and a brush clear them. Dry everything thoroughly before reassembling, because in this climate moisture left in the assembly after a clean is a real and common cause.

If the burner still will not light after that, the igniter or the spark module is next, and swapping the cap with a working burner is a free test — if the problem follows the cap, you have your answer.

## What is not a failure

**H5** on the display is the hot surface indicator. LG's own list says it plainly: the glass is above 150°F and this is not an error. It clears on its own.

**A locked panel** looks like a dead cooktop. Hold the control lock keys for three seconds and listen for the chime.

Both of those get called in as breakdowns, which is why they are here rather than buried further down.

---

**[Read full article: One Burner Dead and the Rest Fine: Gas, Radiant and Induction](https://lgmiami.support/blog/one-burner-dead/)**