---
title: "Dishwashers"
description: "LG dishwashers: a hundred and eight in LG's current catalog, and the best-documented dishwasher on this fleet: LG publishes thirteen codes for it and names…"
url: "https://lgmiami.support/appliances/dishwasher/"
date_modified: "2026-09-05"
Appliance type: "Dishwashers"
---


# LG dishwashers

### A hundred and eight machines, two control layouts

LG’s dishwashers are front control, with the buttons on the face, or top control, with them hidden along the top edge of the door. The wash system is QuadWash on most of the range — arms that move in two directions rather than one — and the motor is an Inverter Direct Drive, which is why these machines are quiet enough that people call about a noise which is simply the machine working.

### The codes, and what they are worth

Thirteen, each with LG’s own name for the part: AE/EI/FE for leakage or overfilling, IE for the inlet, OE for the outlet, tE for the temperature sensor, HE for the heater, LE for the wash motor, PE for the water level sensor, bE for the bubble error, nE for the vario pump, CL for the control lock, and F31, F35 and F37 across the heat-dry system. That last group is worth knowing because it explains the most confusing symptom this appliance has: a machine that washes perfectly and leaves everything wet.

Front control · top control · QuadWash · TrueSteam · Inverter Direct Drive

Dishwasher repair

Front control and top control, QuadWash arms and TrueSteam

Thirteen published codes, each naming its own part

Inverter Direct Drive motors, which are quiet and are not silent

A hundred and eight machines, two control layouts

LG’s dishwashers are front control, with the buttons on the face, or top control, with them hidden along the top edge of the door. The wash system is QuadWash on most of the range — arms that move in two directions rather than one — and the motor is an Inverter Direct Drive, which is why these machines are quiet enough that people call about a noise which is simply the machine working.

The codes, and what they are worth

Thirteen, each with LG’s own name for the part: AE/EI/FE for leakage or overfilling, IE for the inlet, OE for the outlet, tE for the temperature sensor, HE for the heater, LE for the wash motor, PE for the water level sensor, bE for the bubble error, nE for the vario pump, CL for the control lock, and F31, F35 and F37 across the heat-dry system. That last group is worth knowing because it explains the most confusing symptom this appliance has: a machine that washes perfectly and leaves everything wet.

### There is water in the bottom at the end of the cycle.

That is OE, and LG's own explanation is the one to start from: the machine could not get rid of the water it used. In a Miami kitchen the order is almost always the filter first — the cylinder in the sump, which comes out by hand and is usually the whole answer — then the drain hose behind the machine for a kink or a crush, then the air gap or disposal spigot at the sink, and only then the pump. A pump that has actually failed is quiet when it should hum, and that is a thing you can listen for before anybody is called.

### Everything comes out with a chalky film on it.

Usually water rather than machine, in this city. Hard water leaves the film, rinse aid is what stops it, and the two arrive together — an empty rinse aid reservoir and a house with no softener will do this to a machine that is working perfectly. What makes it a repair is when the film comes with poor cleaning: then it is spray arms, the filter, or the heater LG codes as HE.

### It stops mid-cycle and shows a code with a letter and a number.

The F-numbers on this make are the heat-dry system: F31 is the fan, F35 is the temperature and F37 is the door that opens itself at the end of the cycle. None of them stop the dishwasher washing, and all of them stop it drying. If you have a code with letters instead — bE, nE, PE — that is the wash side, and it is worth writing down exactly as shown before you cut the power.

### How long should one of these last here?

Ten to twelve years is a fair expectation, and the thing that shortens it is not use. It is a filter nobody has taken out, because everything that does not leave through the drain stays in the sump and goes through the pump again. Five minutes twice a year is the single best-value maintenance on any appliance in the kitchen.

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